We've recieved many request for information about crate training...So I've posted a couple of articles we keep on hand to give people as well as some of our own comments. We hope it helps you!


From the April 1997 issue of Dog Fancy
THE REWARDS OF HOUSE TRAINING
By  Gary Wilkes

        Sit Down And Take A Deep Breath. What I am about to tell you is far more sacred than Santa Clause, The Easter Bunny and the Tooth Fairy rolled into one. The cherished belief is so deeply ingrained that it is difficult to ignore and impossible to forget. Really? Here goes: Punishing a puppy for having an "accident" doesn't work. There, I've said it.
        For thousands of years, we have used punishment as the primary tool for house training a dog. Punishment is such an integral part of the process that even the common term "housebreaking" implies a negative. When we train a child to eliminate correctly, we call it potty training because we want the child to use the "potty". When we train dogs, we call it housebreaking because we don't want them to "go potty" in the house.
        Even though the two behaviors are identical, we hold contradictory views about how to teach them. We realize a child should be reinforced for correct behavior, but we assume a dog must  be punished for bad behavior. I n the long run , most children learn to use a toilet, while many puppies struggle with learning to eliminate outdoors. The main difference between  the success rate of potty training and house training can be traced to the teacher's methods: We spend most of our energy trying to catch the little devils doing something wrong. when we should be trying to actively teach them what to do.
        The first step in improving your house training technique is realizing that correct elimination is a behavior, just like lying down, rolling over or sitting. The same rules apply to tricks and obedience behaviors apply to house training. Compare the similarities between behaviors, and you will see why punishment is often ineffective and positive reinforcement is usually successful.
        Imagine you are teaching your puppy to play Frisbee.  Regardless of intelligence or instinctive drive, a young pup does not possess the coordination, stamina and strength necessary to play Frisbee well. No matter how much you practice, the pup's body will occasionally stumble, collapse and miss the target. If you apply the "punish for accidents" rule, it is clear what you would do when the puppy has a Frisbee accident. You would drag the pup to the Frisbee, rub its nose in it and give it a swat. Hey the  pup knows it did wrong, doesn't it?
        Hmmm. That doesn't sound right. Because the puppy isn't physically capable of doing the behavior, it seems arbitrary, capricious and downright mean to swat it for making a simple mistake. It seems irrelevant whether the pup knows it did something wrong. There is no right or wrong to playing Frisbee because Frisbee is just a game. Because, how could a pup possibly understand the rules of the game if it is still too young to play well?
    Suddenly, the old rule of house training don't sound so good. A puppy punished for incorrectly playing Frisbee is likely to develop a general aversion for the sport. The same is true for house training. in both cases, positive reinforcement for correct behavior is the best way to develop and control your pup's education. Here are a few suggestions to help speed up the process. Your goal is to create as many situations as possible that allow you to positively reinforce correct elimination.
        Plan potty times. Puppies have a tendency to eliminate right after playing, sleeping, eating and drinking. Plan potty times that correspond  with these activities. Try to play outdoors and have a treat ready when the pup eliminates. Control food and water intake, what goes in must come out. When and where this happens are up to you. Regular feeding means semi--regular
elimination.
        Select the best Quality puppy food you can find and stick with it. Many of  the low end foods contain non nutritious fillers that are safe but increase the number of daily eliminations. Sudden changes in diet should also be avoided.
        Use an airline carrier or kiddy gate to confine the pup in your absence.  They can be the perfect tools to decrease the number of accidents. A crate can be used or abused. Long confinements {more than 8 hours} may cause the pup to eliminate in the crate. If you use a laundry room or bathroom for confinement, you can avoid paper training by using grass training. Get a shallow oil drip pan at an auto supplies store, and put a piece of grass sod in it. Change the sod as needed. By using grass, you will have an easier time making the transition to outdoor elimination.
        Use food treats for correct elimination. This is probably the most powerful and under-used house training tool. It is ironic that our traditional view of house training condones escalating punishment for accidents, but it does not advocate escalating positive reinforcement for correct elimination.
        Set up a potty ritual. Use the same door each time you go outside. Go to the same area of the yard. Wait patiently and quietly until the pup eliminates. Say "good dog" at the end of the sequence. Do not interrupt the puppy with lots of encouragement. Once the pattern starts to become predictable, starting saying "hurry up" or, "Go potty" just before you think the pup is about to go. Wait until it finishes, say "good dog" and deliver the treat.
        Gradually allow the dog more responsibility. Begin by taking the pup to the potty area and remaining there until it eliminates. Gradually allow the pup to go part of the way itself. Soon the pup will be able to do the routine alone. Caution: You need to be able to see whether the pup actually eliminates. If you let your pup outside and don't bother to make sure it has completed its task, you can expect a surprise indoors later.   Be willing to get up during the night. If you have a puppy less than 3 months of age, you can expect to get up to let it out. The alternative is to all the pup to eliminate where it sleeps, which will only prolong house training and ensure more accidents.
        Do not punish accidents or you will have a pup afraid to eliminate in your presence. Instead, it will go in your absence and be afraid to eliminate outdoors while you hover.
      Let the puppy grow up. Until the pup is 5 or 6 months of age, its muscles and incapable of controlling elimination like an adult. If you can cut down on the number of accidents in the meantime the dog will soon be mature enough to control itself.
Crate Training
(An excerpt from American Kennel Club Dog Care and Training, published by American Kennel Club)
This is a very useful and easy to read book. If you're interesting in
getting this book, it's available through the American Kennel Club for
$9.95 ($2 p&h in U.S, $5 all others)...The phone number is (919) 233-9767.
Crate training is simple. Basically, it involves taking the puppy outside frequently, where it's praised for relieving itself. When the puppy's inside, it's either confined to a large sleeping-living box (the crate) or has carefully supervised liberty. At night or when you're about to leave for a few hours, the puppy is taken outside, and then placed in its crate. When you get up in the morning or arrive home, the puppy is immediately taken outside again and then given freedom to play in a confined area under your watchful eye. 
Some experts in animal behavior think that puppies adapt readily to crate training because their wild ancestors were den animals, and the crate becomes your puppy's personal den. Training then proceeds on the simple principle that dogs, as naturally clean animals, will do what they can to avoid soiling their den space. Therefore, by confining a puppy to its crate at certain times of the day and night, it learns to control the urge to empty its bladder or bowels until it's allowed outside, whereupon it is rewarded through praise for a job well done.
If errors happen, and they will from time to time during the training period, chastise the puppy mildly and immediately take it outside to an area it has used previously, to remind it about the only permissible place to go. Remember to be fair, however. A young puppy needs to eliminate often, so take it out as often as you can in the early days before it has developed a measure of control. Puppies must be taken out about an hour after each feeding. (My Note: A very young puppy will not wait that long. You have to learn about how much time your own dog take to potty because they vary) Gradually, with age, your puppy will be able to contain itself for longer periods, and you can reduce the required outings to approximately four daily. 
A crate is nothing more than a sturdy enclosure, which you can buy or build, similar in shape to the containers used by airlines for animal transport. Try not to think about this process as putting the puppy in a cage, with all of its negative connations. It is not a jail cell or an instrument of punishment. In fact, many people find that puppies soon regard the crate as a place to retreat whenever they feel like having peace and quiet. They actually seem to appreciate possessing private space. Having a dog accustomed to being crated is also practical when you're traveling, because it controls the animal's movement and offers restraint and protection if something unplanned happens. 
Many people buy a crate from a pet shop. Making your own crate, however, should not be difficult. Just be sure to build one that is strong, with secure footing and good ventilation. Ask your puppy's breeder if he or she has a spare crate or can tell you where to get one. You should aim for a clean, well constructed enclosure with enough space for the puppy to rest comfortably, stand and turn around. 
If the puppy persists in using the crate as an outhouse, your problem may be excessive space. In that case, the puppy believes his sleeping requirements are well met on one end, so it might as well use the other end to relieve itself. You may be able to solve the problem by making a simple partition for the crate interior, progressively moving it back as the puppy grows. 
And lastly, never, ever leave an untrained puppy in a situation where it can get into trouble or cause damamge. When you open the door of the crate the dog must always be under close supervision. Will a young, teething puppy chew on your furniture? There's a good chance it will do just that, if you turn your back. So don't offer the opportunity. Make sure you have a safe place to leave your puppy whenever it can't be watched. We're making this point as emphatically as possible so that you don't become disenchanted by misbehavior you could easily have prevented.
Hapiness Is A Dog Crate
(from Dogs USA/1986 Annual)
Far too many potentially good pets are misunderstood, unfairly punished, isolated or simply "gotten rid of" by otherwise well-meaning owners who are unable to preven, control or live with the common 'problem' behavior of puppies and young adult dogs. The correct use of a dog crate could give these dogs the chance they need and deserve to be happy, appreciated family member. 

A dog crate is a rectangular enclosure with a top and a door, available in a range of sizes and constructed of wire, wood, metal, plastic or molded fiberglass. It may look like a 'cage' to you, but it's very soon 'home' to your dog. For him, it's a 'den' of his very own, a private special place-a 'security blanket.' He is not afraid or frustrated when closed in; rather, he prefers having his life structured and controlled.

Humanely used, a dog crate offers many advantages for you and your dog. You can enjoy peave of mind when leaving your dog home alone, knowing that nothing can be soiled or destroyed. You can housebreak your dog more quickly by using the close confinement to encourage control, establish a regular routine for outdoor elimination and to prevent 'accidents' overnight or when left alone. You can keep him out from underfoot if there are workmen in the house or if he's just too excitable at times. You can travel with him safely in his portable 'house.'

The use of a dog crate, however is not recommended for a dog which must be frequently or refularly left alone for extended periods of time--such as all or much of the day at a time), the dog must be given lots of exercise before and after crating, plus lots of personal positive attention, and be allowed complete freedom at night (including sleeping near his owner.) (My note, I disagree with this until a dog is totally trustworthy in the house, which could take up to a year. You don't want them to get bored and do anything wrong then have to deal with that.) His crate must be large enough to permit him to comfortably stretch out on his side and have a cup or dish for water. (Another note: Don't make the kennel big enough that the dog can potty in a corner and then move far away from it or it may use it's crate as both bedroom and bathroom) 

Crate or no crate, any dog constatly denied the human companionship it needs and craves is going to be a lonely pet--and may still find ways to express anxiety, depression and general stress.

 A crate should always be large enough to permit any age dog to lie down and sit up, without hitting his head. The crate should be 

placed so that the dog still feels part of the family--in 'people' areas such as the kitchen or family room. Put it in a corner or (if it is not the solid type)cover the top and sides loosely with a towel or blanket, so that he can still see out and get air. you can even use the top of the crate as a shelf. Do keep the crate away from drafts and direct heat sources.

A young puppy (8-16 weeks) should have no problem accepting a crate as his 'own place.' Any complaining he might do at first is caused not by the crate, but by his learning to accept the controls of his unfamiliar new environment. 

Make it clear to the children that the crate is not a play house for them, but a special room for the puppy, whose rights should be recognized and respected. However, you should accustom the pup from the start to letting you reach into the crate at any time, lest he become over-protective of it. 

Establish a crate routine immediately, closing the puppy in at regular one to two-hour intervals during the day (his own chosen nap times with guide you) and whenever he mustbe left alone for up to three or four hours. Give him a chew toy for distraction and be sure to remoove collar and tags which might become caught in an opening. 

One point to remember is never to put you pup in the crate as punishment. Make it a normal activity, with no negative overtones. 

If you do no choose, or are not able, to use a crate permanently, plan to use it for at least five or six months, or until the dog is well past the teething phase. Then start leaving the crate door open at night, when someone is at home during the day, or when he is briefly left alone. If all goes well for a week or two, remove the crate and leave the bedding in the same spot.  Should any problem behavior occur at a future time, however (such as breaking house training), go back to the crate routine. 

Although a crate can be used successfully by most pet owners, there are always those animals which simply can or will not tolerate this form of confinement. This reaction is not nearly as likely wiht a young puppy as with an adult dog.

This information is taken from A Pet Owner's Guide to the Dog Crate, a pamphlet written by Nicki Meyer as a public service.

Ladmar Beagles